The Potager- Ornamental Vegetable and Herb Garden.

A Potager Garden

The Potager garden was originally designed by medieval French monks, but its hay day was in the 16Cth. When no french garden would be complete with out one. A potager is an ornamental vegetable, fruit and herb garden. With symmetrical and geometric patterned flower beds, intersected by narrow paths. The fruit and vegetables are as ornamental as possible but also edible and planted in groups and in decretive patterns.

Here are some varieties to get you started on the design of your potager.

Laurus nobilis as a clipped hedge.

Laurus nobilis- bay, in fact a large evergreen tree. But it can be chipped and trained into many topiary shapes from, cones, squares and lolly-pops. These trimmed trees will add structure to your Potager garden even in the winter months. You can add an extra dimension by training your lolly-pop standards to have twisted trunks. The leaves are used to flavour sauces and meat dishes particularly in Italian cookery. A must to define the axis’s of your design.

Rosmarinus officinallis ‘Miss Jessopp’s Upright’

Rosmarinus officinallis ‘Miss Jessopp’s Upright’: although Rosemary has in fact been re-classified as a Salvia, I think it is still best known as Rosmarinus and all nurseries will know what you are asking for. This is a lovely variety of the evergreen shrub with a small compact habit and upright stems, making it perfect as a low hedge to edge the vegetable beds of the Potager. The aromatic leaves are used in both savory and sweet dishes and to scent clothes draws. The flowers are also edible.

Thymus serphyllum ‘Russetings’

Thymus serphllum ‘Russetings’ : A wonderful evergreen low creeping thyme, which will grow in the cracks of the paths or run around under standards like gooseberries and bay trees. With a mass of pretty small purple flowers much loved by insects from mid summer. It has the added advantage of being a mainstay of the culinary herbs being just widely in the recipes of many cuisines.

Apple saturn ‘Stepover’

Apple Saturn ‘Stepover’ : grown on the most dwarfing stock, M27, these apples have been developed to grow low to the ground almost like a horizontal cordon, so you can step over them as the name suggests. A wonderful talking point to edge the main path. This variety is self-fertile, has good disease resistance and is a superb apple, with a strong flavour and a crisp flesh which is very juicy. Pick October and keeps to January. Surely a must for you Potager.

Rainbow chard cut & come again

Rainbow Chard: This is a wonderful vegetable which can be harvested for many months and particularly comes into it’s own in the autumn and winter when it has it’s main cropping season, just cut the stems and remove the tougher leaves but eat both stem and leaf. But it’s ornamental merit is what is attractive for the potager. It has vivid stems in white, cream, pink, red, orange and yellow. A stunning vegetable, that tastes good to.

Cynara scolymus ‘Gros Vert de Leon’-Globe artichoke

Cynara scolymus ‘Grosvert de Lean’: This is a statuesque hardy variety of Globe Artichoke from France. It produces a great sword of sliver grey leaves and a a tall flower pick up to 2m tall. With tight round green buds which are very succulent and have a knock out taste are produced in late summer. If you miss the odd one or two in your harvest then they will open to reveal their beautiful blue thistle like flowers. Insects will love the flowers and birds the seeds.

A potager garden

Top tips: The site for your Potager should be in full sun if possible a little shade from the odd tree over part of it is probably ok. But don’t forget it is all about symmetry so you want the same key plants to mirror in different parts of the garden then having the same light conditions through out will help. Also don’t forget that some flowers are also edible and this can increase the amount of colour in your potager garden. Marigold, Borage, violas and natstershams to name a few.

The mixed planting of a Potager garden

I hope I have inspired you to have a go at creating your own Potager, if you don’t feel confident having a go your self, then I know just the woman who can help you, just give me Emily a ring on 01273 470753.

Don’t forget, in a Potage Garden the edibles are the stars not ornamental flowers.

Spiraea, Philadelphus and Weigela- Late Spring-Early Summer Shrubs

Spring and Summer flowering shrubs

Spiraea, Philadelphus and Weigela, could be considered to be the holy trinity of summer flowering shrubs, these are the back bone and structure to any good large boarder planting scheme. Often summer colour is thought of as roses and herbaceous planting and shrubs get over looked. But they have much to add when in and out of flower and no good planting scheme would be with out these three. Here are some varieties to consider.

Philadelphus Belle Etoile

Philadelphus ‘Belle Etoile’: ‘mock orange’, it is all about the scent with Philadelphus, and this variety has to be amongst the best. A medium sized shrub with tall upright, arching growth, gives a statuesque feel to the boarder. Mid green leaves and wide open white flowers flushed with a maroon centre. Flowering June to July. Sun part shade.

Pheladelphus Manteau d’ Hermine

Phiadelphus ‘Manteau d’ Hermine’: A compact variety producing a neat mound of low growth with fresh green leaves. Long lasting sweetly scented flowers June into July. Will grow in any reasonable soil with good drainage, they do not like being water logged.

Spiraea Arguta

Spiraea aruguta: ‘ Bridal wreath’, this is a truly spectacular late spring early summer shrub, when in full flower. A mound forming medium sized shrub with long arching branches, it really must be given it’s head and allowed to fully develop its habit, which is graceful and eye stopping, but sadly to often is hacked into submission. Small clusters of white flowers produced in profusion line the branches from April to May. Followed by small mid-green leaves. Sun or a little shade.

Spiraea japonica ‘Candle Light’

Spirea japonica ‘Candle Light’: This is a small compact growing Spiraea ideal for the small garden or flower bed. With a compact dense habit and small bushy soft yellow leaves that mature into a strong yellow. Flat heads of soft pink flowers are produced from July to August. Sun or a little shade. These tough shrubs will put up with a lot of different soil conditions but not water logging.

Weigela florida ‘Foliis Purpureis’

Weigela florida ‘Foliis Purpureis’: A small to medium shrub which is slow growing with a dense compact habit. With grey-purplish leaves which act as a stunning foil for the pink trumpet like flowers produced in clusters from May to June. Grow in full sun although will tolerate a little shade. All good well drained soils.

Weigela florida variegate

Weigela flordia varigata: Medium sized shrub with a dense habit. Leaves have a delicate variegation of creamy white edging to the leaves. Scented pink flowers in June. Best grown in dappled shade, so the variegated leaves do not get scorched.

Spring shrubs can be wonderful in pots and containers

Tips: These three hardy shrubs will grow nearly anywhere. From good rich soil to thin chalk. They like good light levels and a sunny spot, but the yellow leaved and variegated forms of all three shrubs are prone to scorching in very hot sunny potions. Only prune if really needed, to reduce size or remove very old or diseases wood. If you have chosen the right shrub for the space it should not need to be pruned. If you do need to prune, then after flowering is the best time, to allow for regrowth and the development of next years flowers.

All these beautiful shrubs, add a bold splash of colour to the late spring garden.

I hope I have inspired you to take a fresh look at these under used shrubs, with their long flowering season, scent, spectacular flower displays and varied foliage colour. As well as the range of sizes. These shrubs really do deserve to be planted much more widely.

If you need help to revamp a planting area and to redesign a planting scheme, then I know just the woman to help you. Give me Emily a ring on 01273 470753, to discuss all your garden design needs.

Pretty in Pink

A pink flower border

The white garden and even now the hot garden and cool counter part, has been pretty much ‘done’ to death. So if you want to be in the vanguard of a new look, why not hit your dreamy feminine side, get all ‘Barbara Cartland’ and go ‘Pretty in Pink’. Here are a few plants to get you started.

Hebe ‘Great Orme’

Hebe ‘Great Orme’: A wonderful domed evergreen shrub up to 1.2/1.5m in size. With Swirls of long mid-green leaves and large dramatic spikes of bi-coloured flowers from rick pink to soft white. Mid summer. Any good free draining soil. Full sun.

Syringa pubescens Subsp. microphylla ‘Superba’

Syringa pubescens subp. Microphylla ‘Superba: This is a lovely slowish growing compact Lilic. Getting to about 1.5m in height or a little taller. Small rounded mid green leaves. With small clustered mid pink flower clusters which are highly scented in June – July. Good soil full sun.

Rosa ‘Gertude Jekyll’

Rosa ‘Gertrude Jekyll’: This is a vigorous upright rose, produced by David Austin. Up to 2m, also can be used as a short climber for a fence or arch way. Good disease resistance. Eye popping shocking pink cupped flowers with strong scent produced from early summer up to the frosts. Good humus rich soil with good moisture retention. In full sun.

Anemone hupehensis japonica ‘Prinz Heinrich’

Anemone hupehensis japonica ‘Prinz Heinrich’: This is a great end of summer perennial that will just flower and flower. The huge advantage is it is shorter than most Anemones at 70cm and much better behaved, it is less likely to spread. Flowering from July to the first frosts with rich pink open flowers and golden stamens. Full sun or part shade. To even quite dense shade. Most soils.

Bergenia ‘Eroica’

Bergina ‘Eroica’:fabulous low growing ground cover perennial. Evergreen with rounded leathery leaves of mid green that go a superb wine red in the colder months. Flowers held on red stems are a eye shocking magenta with a black central eye. March/April. Good humus rich soil dappled shade.

Salvia hemorosa ‘Rosa Queen’

Salvia nemorosa ‘Rose Queen: Clusters of base leaves in mid green and a mass of mid pink flower spikes produced from May to August, this perennial earns its keep. Height 45cm. Full sun well drained soil.

Pretty in Pink !

I hope I have inspired you to try something a little different, whether you decide on one particular shade of pink or mix it up, don’t forget shades of foliage and even pink new growth. Splashes of white can help to space the colours, you can go as mad or as restrained as your creative juices desire. Good Luck.

Don’t forget,if you want help creating an eye catching pink garden, I would be happy to help, just give me Emily a ring 01273 470753.

The Gravel Garden

A gravel Garden

The Gravel Garden, was brought to public notice, by the wonderful gravel garden that Beth Chatto created out of the car park, of her garden in Essex. It has developed into a particular garden style, not only defined, by free draining soils and in full sun. But the radio plants to decorative mulch and rocks and stones. The plants tend to be more spaced and in small groups, so the individual habit can be enjoyed. The choose of mulching chippings is important, to frame the plants and large Peebles, rocks and stones can also be used, begging the question when is a gravel garden not a rock garden? Most gravel gardens tend to be flat or on slight slopes, with generous irregular shaped beds and winding paths, allowing self seeding to create the informality that is a hall-mark of a gravel garden. Here are some plants to consider.

Cistus dansereaui ‘Decumbens’

Cistus dansercaui ‘Decumbens’: A good compact small cistus, with aromatic evergreen foliage. Wide flat open papery flowers, which are white with a big splash of red at the centre and golden stamens. Flowering June into July. Full sun.

Ceratostigma willmottianum

Ceratostigma ‘Willmottianum’: A small open twiggy shrub, with stems that are red with small leaves that turn a rich red in autumn. Clusters of sky blue flowers with white centres are produced freely from late summer up to the first frost. Full sun

Ulex europaeus ‘Flore Pleno’

Ulex europaeus ‘Flore pleno’: A mound forming compact shrub with prickly evergreen foliage. Sweetly scented double flowers produced from April-May and into June. Full sun.

Hebe ‘Red Edge’

Hebe’ Red Edge’: A lovely densely mounding low hebe with dramatic evergreen sliver foliage which has winter tints of red and purple. The flowers are pretty insignificant and are small and white, if produced in mid summer. It is all about the foliage.

Euphorbia myrsinites

Euphorbia myrsinites: This is a very unusual looking plant, it creeps and crawls its way across the ground. It is evergreen, with pea-green stems with sparsely produced green glorious leaves and clusters of pea-green flowers in April. A must for the edge of the gravel garden. Full sun.

Heleanthemum ‘Wisley Primrose’

Helianthemum ‘Wisley Primrose’: No gravel garden would be complete with out a mound forming and spreading rock rose. This is a lovely sliver leaved variety with soft yellow flowers from mid to late summer. Full sun.

A very colourful gravel garden

Top Tips: Gravel gardens require very good drainage and are best in a sunny spot on poor free drainage soil. You can help the drainage of your gravel garden, by adding pea-beach and horticultural grit. Also by mounding the planting beds with crushed stone or even crushed brick, before adding a layer or top soil mixed with gravel. Choose gravel and chippings for mulching that are local to your area, are you going to vary the sizes, so the paths are different? Decide if you are going to have groups of larger stones as focal points in the planting or around specimen shrubs. Are there going to be large rocks at path junctions or as seats. There is a lot to consider when designing your gravel garden.

If you would like help designing a gravel garden, then I know just the person to give you a hand. Give me Emily a ring on 01273 470753 to discuss your garden project. I would be delighted to help.

Bulbs & Corms for Alpine, Rock gardens and Trough Gardens.

Bulbs in a rock garden.

Miniature flowering bulbs and corms add a splash of colour to the early alpine garden or the rock garden and are a must in trough gardens, here are few to consider.

Chinodoxa forbesii

Chinodoxa forbesii: A beautiful early flowering bulb March/April. With low clumps of flowers which are bright blue and open to show a white central splash. Flowers are held above the clumps of leaves. A bulb that is good for naturalising in the rock garden in Sun or part shade. 10-15cm

Cyclamen alpina

Cyclamen alpinum: These wonderful plants add a shock of colour to the winter garden. Flowering January/February. They have heart-shaped leaves with decorative sliver marbling. The dainty pink flowers are in clusters above the leaves. With a good long flowering period in dappled sun. A must for the winter alpine garden. 5/7cm

Iris donfordiae

Iris donfordiae: This is a lovely low growing Iris at 5/8cm high, perfect for a trough garden, giving very early colour flowering in February. Plant in small clumps to enjoy this elegant rich yellow flower. Full sun

Muscari maxabel

Muscari maxabel: A great addition to the rock garden this low growing muscari will naturalise well forming sweeps of colour. With it’s unusual flowers of sky blue and white edges. Perfect for a sunny spot. Flowering March/April. 10cm

Muscari maxabel

Narcissi bulbocodium ‘Golden Bells’: Small clumps of very fine green leaves, give way to this very delicate small flowered daffodil. Which has a very unusual golden flower with an wide generous trumpet and small tiny outer petals. Full sun, April flowering. 15cm. Lovely in any rock garden.

Scilla bifolia

Scalla bifolia : A wonderful early flowering bulb, not to tall so ideal for trough gardens at 5/10cm. This bulb likes more moisture and dose not like to dry out. But must not be waterlogged. Short wide leaves with star shaped open flowers are produced in March/April.

Groups of different coloured Iris

Top Tips: All of these bulbs require good drainage, they will not cope with water logging, so add grit to planting holes. To really get that alpine look plant in small clumps, surrounded by chippings and rocks, and if possible as close to eye level as possible, so you can appropriate the beauty of the individual flowers of this miniature world.

Iris retiuclata groups of varying colours can make a delicate but powerful impacted.

I hope I have inspired you to get planting, come the Autumn, so you can enjoy these winter and early spring gems.

A Small Front Garden

A small front garden

Sadly front gardens tend to get over looked, or just seen as a way to the front door or a car park. But a well designed and planted front garden can give both you and your neighbours joy as well as passers- by. It can also be a rich habitat for wildlife.

Most front gardens need privacy, either from neighbours or the road, so boundaries are all important. Move beyond the obvious fencing and add hedging as a living boundary which will change through the seasons and be a home to birds and help to reduce, noise, car lights and pollution. Here are a couple of suggestions.

Hebe hedges

Hebe ‘Mrs Winder’: This is a lovely hebe with a good compost habit up to 1/1.3m in height, with dense evergreen foliage of mid green, which has winter tints of purple and red in the older weather. It has purple flower spikes produced in late summer July-August. Most soils, with good drainage. Quit hardy for a Hebe. Full sun.

Berberis hedge

Berberis: x frikartii ‘Amstelveen’: This Berber’s makes a compact dense prickly hedge ideal of a street boundary. Growing up to 1.5m or more it has small glossy green leaves with a glaucous underside. A mass of small bright yellow flowers in spring followed by blue-purple berries. Soil with good drainage, sun to part-shade.

A tree is a must in a front garden, even if a small space, it gives height and scale to the garden particularly to balance a high house facade.

Malus Everest

Malus Everest: This is a wonderful tree for a small garden reaching 3/4m in time and with a compact habit of acceding branches, giving it a champagne flue like shape. With blush pink clusters of flowers in the spring, giving way to mid-green foliage on the light crown. Followed by rusty autumn leaf tints to its, crowning glory clusters of small red crab-apples which hang on the bare branches through all of winter into early spring. All good soils, not water logged, full sun, will cope with a bit of shade.

In a small garden boundaries are very dominant but they also have the advantage of being another planting space. Scent in a small space, particularly near the front door where you can enjoy it can really lift the sprit.

Rosa ‘Buff Beauty’

Rosa ‘Buff Beauty’: This is a wonderful ‘David Austin’ Rose all the beauty and scent of old fashioned roses but repeat flowering. Roses are wonderful, as they will start flowering in May and will go on even to Christmas depending on the frosts. This is a small climber with healthy dark green growth. With clusters of old gold /Apricot flowers highly scented which fade to a creamy yellow. Followed by deep orange hips. Good fertile soil which holds moister, not water logged. Full Sun.

Pyracatha ‘Golden Charmer’

Pyrcantha ‘Golden Charmer’: This wonderful wall shrub can be clipped into a dense shrub to clothe a side wall or fence or cut to shape round house windows. A great nesting spot for birds. Also growing climbers on house walls has been shown to keep your home at a more balanced temperature throughout the year, reducing heat in Summer and heating bills in winter. A spiny evergreen shrub with glossy dark green leaves. Clusters of slightly scented white flowers in spring. In the late summer and autumn great bunches of golden yellow berries. Good fertile soil to poorer soils. Sun to part-shade.

In a small space every plant has to work hard, with long flowering seasons and or evergreen foliage so there are no blank and dead spaces in the winter months.

Daphne x altantica ‘Eternal Fragrance’

Daphne x alantica’Eternal Fragrance: This is a wonderful small compact evergreen shrub with dark green leaves and a neat habit. Its main flowering season in June, but it will flower on and off throughout the growing season. Small clusters of waxy blush flowers are produced which are highly scented. Humus rich soils with good water retention. Full sun.

Lavendula x intermedia ‘Grosso’

Lavendula x intermedia ‘Grosso’: This is a lovely Dutch Lavender with large sliver grey foliage on a mounding shrub. The attractive aromatic foliage is evergreen, making it perfect for edging the front path or drive. Long stems hold the large elongated light mauve flowers well above the foliage. Flowering in July and into August. The scented flowers are a magnet for a great variety of insects. Poorer soils in full sun.

Hellaborus orientallis

Hellaborus orientallis: This is a wonderful long flowering plant. Mounds of large evergreen palmate dark green leaves make a compact herbaceous perennial The flower stems rise from the base in late December to flower, December to the middle of March or latter. The colours vary from, clear white, cream with purple spots, dusky pink, dark purple and to light green. The Flowers are followed by very attractive seed pods which last till May. Good humus rich soils sun to deep shade.

Geranium ‘Rozanne’

Geranium ‘rozanne’: One of the best and free flowering of the hardy perennial geraniums a clump of mid green leaves are produce in early spring. A mass of clear blue/purple flowers with a white centre are produced from mid spring right through the summer up to the autumn. After each flowering shear of the dead flowers, to encourage latter flowering. Sunny spot on most soils.

Small front garden

I hope I have inspired you to look again at your front garden and to make the very most of it.

Winter clean your garden shed

The Shed

Mid winter, particularly that nomens-land between Christmas and New Year is a great time to tackle, possible the most forgotten place in the garden, the shed. Often crammed to over flowing with, broken and discarded tools and cracked plastic pots and some very suppositious looking chemical bottles and boxes which have gone soggy and have labels falling off. This is the time to put aside a day or more and get things ship shape, ready for the growing season ahead.

The lawn mowers and other kit

The first thing to tackle is getting your lawn mowers and strimmers in to be serviced and have the blades sharpened, before Christmas if possible. Hopefully on the last couple of cuts, you managed to use most of the petrol, so it want go ‘stale’ sitting in the lawn mower/strimmer tank over the winter. Next unhook the spark plug for safety and on a dry day tip the mower over and remove all old grass and brush and scrub down also clean the surface of the mower. With strimmers give a general clean and in particular all guards. Ready to take your machines in for servicing.

Next check all seeds, they should be stored in a water proof box some where cool and dry. It is very easy to end up with lots of half packets of seed. Look at the ‘sow by date’ this is a good guide, however of course some can still germinate after this date. If you are not sowing direct into open ground of course you can use the seed and see what happens. If the seeds are for direct sowing, then perhaps use then up on a small area and buy fresh seed in date for a more guaranteed show. Always sow, carrot,parsnip, sweet corn and lettuce for example as fresh seed. Last years half opened seed will give poor results.

washing plant pots

Most sheds seem to be two-thirds full of plastic pots in a variety of shapes and sizes. Get bold and really reduce them down. Decide are they all going to be round or are you going for square, the stacking and sizing will be easier if you keep to the same shape. plastic pots also crack and break over time. So get sorting the sizes out and washing in a mild disinfectant solution, dunking in water afterwards and then leave to dry before stacking in the sizes back in the shed. Sadly plastic plant pots are the real environmental disaster of the horticultural industry, with few nurseries having a returns policy and at the moment as most pots are black, they can not be recycled in local authority recycling systems. However, there is some hope on the horizon, plastic pots in colours that can be recycled are being used, light blue and pink etc. But much better; pots are being produced for the nursery sector using compostable materials like cardboard fibre and coconut fibre etc. so we all have to hope this will become much more wide spread and will become the future

chain saws

If you have completed your winter hedge cutting and have used your chain saw a lot, then now is the time for them to have a full service. Disable the machines so they are safe to clean, with a soft brush, brush all surfaces and the blades and chain, so they are ready for surfacing. It is advisable to have at least one spare chain for the chain saw, so all the chains will need to be sharpened.

Fertilizers and plant food.

So now is the time to sort your way through your garden ‘Medicine Cabinet’ wearing rubber gloves. It is far to easy to keep that box of sequestrated iron over a number of years and then realise with the damp it is now one huge solid lump and falling out of the box. Some old compacted plant food/fertiliser can be broken up and dissolved in water and still used as a liquid feed. Follow all manufactures instructions.

Herbicides and Pesticides.

Then turn your attention to the ‘nasties’ these are the herbicides and pesticides that you have in your shed. Again were protective gloves and long sleeves and possible a face shield. Follow manufactures instructions on safe handling.

Firstly are they all still licensed for use? www.rhs.org.uk/prevention-protection/withdrawn-chemicals. Would be the first place to check, to see if the old bottle at the back of the shelf should still be in residents in your shed. Check all the bottles and containers are in there original packing with their instructions on use and handling attached. Check there are no broken or leaking containers. Check use by dates.

Any chemicals that need to be disposed off, must be in their original packaging. Contact your local authority for advise on where you can take your unwanted chemicals, you can also have a look at the website. www.gardenchemicaldisposal.co.uk

Sort your chemicals safely.

I would suggest having 2 separate high shelves, one for foods/fertilisers and one for chemicals/herbicides and pesticides.

Of course once you started sorting through your garden ‘medicine cabinet’ you might decide you want to go organic and let nature take control.

Clean tools and oil.

Now after a growing season of hard graft, check and clean and care for your hand tools. Do any need new handles? clean all mud and soil from the blades, sharpen spades and hoes, or send them off to be sharpened and oil all tools. Shears and secateurs after a long season will need sharpening, again you can do this yourself with a wet stone, but if you are not comfortable, then many garden centres and nurseries offer this service.

Go through you bags of opened compost, reduced them and roll or tie the top. If you can get them under cover so the rain is not leaching out the nutrients in the compost, that is better, perhaps a spot at the back of the shed. Also now you are not in a flat spin in the growing season, get that muddle of a fruit net out of the shed and fold or roll it and put in a labelled bag, do the same with any garden fleece.

hand tools

So now you can see the back of the shed and you can move about in it, would more selfing help or hooks to get the hand tools off the floor of the shed so there is more room for the mower be a good idea? As the enthusiasm is now high this is the moment to get going on some shed DIY.

Get painting or staining your shed.

Perhaps the shed it’s self could do with some TLC? a fresh coat or couple of stain or paint? re-felting? new door furniture, now is as good a time as any.

I hope I have inspired you to work off some of the Christmas pudding and get cracking on a winter clearance of your shed. One thing is for sure, you will have earned a cup of tea and a big slice of Christmas cake!

Planting steep slopes and Banks.

A stunning example of a sloping garden.

Although lots of people feel a steeply sloping garden or area is a hindrance and a problem area, they do have their advantages. It allows you to see a cascade of planting with different textures and colours, also most banks can be viewed from many angles giving alternative views. But there is no doubt they do have their planting and maintenance challenges. Here are some plants to consider.

Cotonester dammari: This is a must for all steep and sloping sites, this plant will grow almost any where, although it will not like water logging. a very low growing shrub that hugs the ground. With evergreen foliage of neat dark green leaves and small white flowers in spring, followed by blood red berries in the autumn.

Ceanothus griseus var. horizontallis ‘Yankee point’

Ceanothus griseus var.horizontallis ‘Yankee point’: This is a prostrate form of ceanothus with dark evergreen foliage and small mid blue puffy flowers in May-June. Grows on most well drained soils. It reaches heights of 1-1.3m or higher on good soils, and has a very wide spread. It will add a good splash of colour to a planted bank and may even have the odd repeat flower in the early autumn.

Rosa ‘Snow Carpet’

Rosa ‘Snow Carpet’: This delightful rose, literally crawls along the ground with neat leaves and small clusters of mini white roses, repeat flowering through the summer into early autumn.

Juniperus horizontalis ‘Bar Harbour’

Juniperus horizontalis ‘Bar Harbor’: This is a wonderful low growing conifer, it may be a bit slow but it is worth planting. It has attractive blue green foliage which turns a dusky purple in cold winter months.

Helianthemum ‘Wisley Primrose’

Helianthemum ‘Wisley Primrose’: This is a wonderful rock rose, low growing it will spread well. With sliver evergreen foliage and a clear yellow open flower from May to June.

Rosmarinus officinallis ‘Prostratus Group’

Rosmarinus officinallis ‘Prostratus Group’: This lovely shrub has evergreen sliver foliage which is low growing and spreading. With rich mauve flowers in late spring to early summer. With the added advantage that it is a good cooking herb.

A planted bank with dram from top to bottom

Top Tips: When considering planting a bank, do look at how steep it is, will you be able to comfortably stand to weed and prune? Also think about the depth of the boarders on a slope, if possible you want to be able to stand on a path or step and lean into the planting to weed.. Particularly as most of the shrubs I have suggested, have a dense habit of growth and standing in amongst the planting would be difficult and may well ruin the shape of your shrubs. So if it is a very wide slope, or very steep it may be advisable to break the slope up with a flight of steps with wide landings and possibly the odd path, so you can maintain your planted slopes better.

I hope I have given you some ideas and inspiration to get started on tackling your own planting bank. If you need help with your planting project or with any aspects of garden design, then I know just the woman to give you a hand. Do give me Emily a ring on 01273 470753.

Sliver and White Planting

Sissinghurst famous white garden

The concept of the white garden was created when at the turn of the 20C Vita Sackville-West designed her famous white garden at Sissinghurst Castle in Kent. No doubt many before her had hit a upon this winning formula, but as a prolific garden writer her creation hit the fashionable gardening titles and garden supplements of her day. The fashion for the white garden or just white border for those with humbler gardens was born.

Here are a few plants to consider adding to your sliver and white border.

Pyrus salicifolia var. orientalis pendula

Pyrus salicifolia var.Orientallis ‘Pendula’: A beautiful small weeping tree, with delicate thin foliage held on graceful dipping branches. This tree will give height and elegance to a white garden.

Philadelphus coronarinus varigatus

Philadelphus coronarinus varigatus: This medium sized shrub is a must for the white garden, with an upright habit and almost sliver variegation, and strongly scented white flowers in mid-summer.

Hebe albicans

Hebe albicans: A wonderful small compact shrub with a domed habit, this evergreen hebe is a must for the front of the border . With tight sliver foliage and small white flowers in late summer

Artemisia absinthium ‘Lambrokk Mist’

Artemisia absinthium ‘Lambrook Mist’: Has fine feathery aromatic foliage with a colour of soft grey. With clusters of small white flowers in mid-summer. It is a small sized sub-shrub which can be a bit tender, but it’s dramatic foliage means it is a worth while addition to the garden.

Convolvulus cneorum

Convolvulus cneorum: A delicate small mound forming shrub. With soft sliver foliage. Small white blushed trumpet flowers are produced from mid to late summer. This evergreen, is a valuable shrub for the front of the boarder.

Helianthemum ‘The Bride’

Helianthemum ‘The Bride’: For a sunny spot at the edge of a path, or tumbling over a wall, this rock rose, has small grey evergreen leaves and a mass of semi-double white flowers produced in mid -summer. A good addition to the white garden.

White and sliver planting

Top Tip: White is a recessive colour so it makes things seem further away, which is a good illusion to use in garden planting, It enables the designer of the planting to use white to give a stretchered and false prospective. Also white as a colour ‘leaps out’ of darker surroundings so is wonderful in shady spots. A Sliver and white border will particularly come into its own in the lower light levels of twilight and into dusk. As wonderful as a solid white and sliver border may be, consider using splashes of soft mauve and light blue, intermittently through the planting, to help to add visual lift the planting palette.

white and sliver , make for a dramatic cut flower display

I hope I have inspired you to get creative, if you need help to design your white and sliver garden, I know just the woman to give you a hand. Do give me Emily a ring on 01273 470753, I would be delighted to design your garden project with you.

Autumn Lawn Maintenance

Hard working lawns

September is the time to give your hard working lawn a little TLC. After a long summer of ware and tare and this year 2022 a draught. There is enough warmth to germinate grass seed and with the early autumn rain, to help repair bold spots and get the lawn in good health ready for the winter.

Cutting lawn edging with edgeing shears.

Cutting lawn edging with edging shears.

1) Edging: Over the summer plants have no doubt spilt out over the lawn, so re-defining the edges is important, be weary of constantly making the beds a little larger as the plants flop forward. This ends up with wobbly edged beds and more weeding. Better to sharpen the edge of the lawn and repair any bold patches where the plants have grown over the summer. For existing edges, just a short trim with lawn edging shears should do the job. To redefine a long edge, mark with pegs and string or use marker spray and a good sharp half moon edging tool, to cut a clean crisp lawn edge.

Scaffing a lawn with a wire rake.

2) Scaffing Lawn: Over the growing season the lawn will have built up thatch and possible mossy areas, on a dry day, get a good strong spring-bok or similar wire rake and rake the lawn hard. Start at one end and edge of the lawn and work your way over the whole lawn. Then for a really good job rake across the lawn over the grain as it were, in the opposite directions. All the material you have removed from the lawn, can go into the compost bin.

Aerating with a garden fork.

3) Aerating the lawn: Aerating compacted areas of a lawn is really important it aids drainage and gets air and moisture down to the organisms that live in your lawn and make it healthily, It might just be the areas that have been the goal or a worn path across the lawn, or the dog run route or it could be the whole lawn. If it is just patches then using a folk will be fine or if it is a very small lawn, for anything a bit bigger if you are doing the whole lawn then I would suggest hiring an aerating machine or getting a lawn maintenance company in to carry out the hard graft. For small patches, starting just beyond the bold compacted area, hold the fork vertical and dig down to a ¼ spits depth about 75/100mm, give the fork a bit of a wiggle not too much and pull out, you need to work your way in lines over the whole area with a gap of about 70mm between each forked area. You can get specialist aerating forks that have hollow tines and remove a plug of soil, but unless you are doing a lot, I would say that it is a bit of kit you can do without.

An airrating machine, being used on a lawn.

An aerating machine, being used on a lawn.

Re-seeding the lawn.

4) Weeds and Seeding: So no doubt your lawn is now possible looking a bit bald after all your efforts of scaffing and aerating. Walk over the lawn with a small hand trowel in hand and dig up any really large and persistent weeds, unless you are happy with a more flowery lawn approach. Dandelions, plantains and the odd nettle. So identify the areas of the lawn that need seeding all those bald patches. With a fixed tine rack, rake them hard to get a thin soil thilth to seed into. Buy some lawn sand, or a lawn sand top soil mix, lightly spread this over the bald patches, to make a thin layer. Now with a watering can with a fine rose, gently water the areas you are going to seed. Now using a good quality grass seed for hard wearing domestic use, follow the quantise recommend on the packet and lightly seed the areas. For larger areas of the lawn where the grass is just looking thin after all your work, rake with a fixed tine rake, then water with a fine rose and the seed direct onto the existing grass. If you can you need to stop animals and people walking across the newly seeded areas, also anything else you can do to try to keep the birds of the seed is good. Water with a fine rose very few days, but making sure you do not displace the grass seed, if it is raining this will not be needed. After about 3 weeks the grass should be germinating well if it has been wet and warm enough. Re-seed where needed.

A beautiful striped lawn.

So don’t delay now is the time to be kind to your lawn, whether a small patch in a court yard that you sun bath on or a family lawn that has had ball games on all year. Or a lawn that has had the dogs running circles on. All can do with a little lawn TLC.

Hebes: a garden staple.

Mixed shrub planting with Hebes

Hebes, are a wonderful shrub with a good growing habit adding structure and form to mixed planting and dense evergreen foliage acting as a main stay of the winter garden. With the added advantage of a long flowering season and coping with tough growing conditions including exposed coastal sites. There is much to commend this shrub and it’s many varieties. Here are some to consider.

Sadly there is no ‘free from copyright’ image to illustrate this plant.

H. ‘Blue Clouds’: This small compact shrub reaches about 1m in height, with dense glossy green foliage with tints of purple in the winter. With long flower spikes of light mauve from August to October.

Hebe Cupressoides

H. cupressoides: This unusual hebe is a one of the ‘whip cord or conifer’ hebes. With very different foliage. It is a dwarf shrub with spreading habit. With grey green conifer like foliage. Soft purple flowers in a small clusters June to July.

Hebe ‘Great Orme’

H. ‘Great Orme’: This is a small to middle sized shrub with a rounded habit and slightly lax growth. Long green purple leaves and long pink fading to white flower spikes in mid summer. Can be tender.

Sadly thee is no ‘Free from Copyright’ image to illustrate this plant.

H. ‘Black Beauty’: A beautiful small neat shrub with bark purple foliage, to 60cm. with small neat purple flowers mid summer. Can be tender.

Hebe ‘Emerald Green’

H. ‘Emerald Green’: This is a small compost shrub with small mid-green foliage and makes a very dense shrub. Would work will as an alternative to a clipped box ball.

Hebe ‘Red Edge’

H. ‘Red Edge’: This shrub with it’s low mound forming habit and striking grey foliage with the leaves edged red in winter, makes a good low hedge.

Hebes can cope well with coastal planting.

Tips: Hebes are fast growing, but not all are hardy, even in the south East of England, if there is a particularly cold spell, it can kill sections of a mature plant or even kill a small one. But in southern climbs most are hardy, but if in doubt plant with some protection from other shrubs. They do make good low hedges and some of the larger variates informal taller hedges. As they are fast growing, they are not particularly long lived shrubs. They cope well with coastal areas and salt winds, not in the first line of planting by the sea, but in the second planting line.

I hope I have inspired you to add Hebes to your garden planting. If you would like help with designing your garden, then I know just the person to give you a hand. Give me Emily a ring on 01273 470753, to discuss your garden project.

Hooray for Hemerocallis

Hemerocallis in mixed planting

These tough as boots grow pretty much any where hard working perennials, need to be ‘shouted’ about much more. They come in small up to 50mm to pretty large up to1m in height and will grow in sun or partial shade in most moist soils. They come in a wide range of colours from white, pink, to many different yellows and golds to burning oranges to deep reds. Some are even multi coloured. From robust singles to ruffled doubles and delicate spider trumpets, there surely is a Hemercallis to suite every taste! Here are just a few to sample.

Hemerocallis ‘Corky’

H. ‘Corky’: This is a top favourite of mine, with robust mid green sword like foliage and refined slim trumpet flowers on tall stems in buttery golden yellow with stripes of brown on the back of the petals. Flowering mid summer with a later splash of flowers in late summer.

Hemerocallis ‘Joan Senior’

H.’Joan Senior’: This is an elegant mid height hemercallis, with clear white flowers with a deep light green throat, wonderful for a white planting scheme or dappled shade.

Hemerocallis ‘Luxury Lace’

H. ‘Luxury Lace’: This is a rather blousy soft focus Hemerocallis at 60/70cm tall with mid-green foliage and large ruffled edged flowers in soft apricot/pink with a green throat.

Hemerocallis ‘Stella de Oro’

H.’Stella de Oro’: this is a wonderful small variety up to 40/50cm with clumps of skinny light green leaves and wide open bright yellow flowers. Flowering mid-summer.

Hemerocallis ‘Burning Light’

H. ‘Burning Daylight’: This Hemerocallis creates a large bold clump up to 70cm tall, with eye popping intense fire orange flowers which are scented, one for the hot garden. Flowering June/July.

Hemerocallis ‘Crimson Pirate’

H.’Crimson Pirate: This is a striking Hemerocallis with spidery vivid red flowers a real garden talking point. Flowering mid summer.

Mixed Hemercallis together

This over looked perennials demands more use whether as a splash in mixed planting, or a giant edging sweep along the front of the border. I hope I have inspired you to look again at Hemerocallis.

Arcadia Garden Design

Creating beautiful gardens in Brighton and Sussex since 1995